First, the content is about North Korea’s current situation regarding COVID-19 and the return of tourism, especially mentioning an American, Justin Martell, who recently visited. It talks about strict health measures still in place and some quirky theories about the virus. Martell and others are working to bring back Western tourists. North Korea is starting to allow small groups, but access is limited, and some areas like Pyongyang are still off-limits. There’s also mention of obtaining dual citizenship to bypass U.S. travel bans, sensitivity around topics like Ukraine, and personal interactions that highlight the human side beyond politics.
I need to structure this into six clear sections. Maybe start with an introduction about the current state of COVID in North Korea, then move into the tourism efforts, followed by the challenges and limitations, the complexities of access for Americans, the politics and sensitivities, and finally the human connections that tourists make.
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# North Korea’s Lingering COVID-19 Paranoia and the Return of Tourism
## A Glimpse into North Korea’s Pandemic Reality
For most of the world, the COVID-19 pandemic is now a distant memory, but in North Korea, the fear of the virus remains deeply entrenched. Justin Martell, an American filmmaker and the first known U.S. citizen to visit the secretive nation since the pandemic began, has shared his unique perspective on the country’s ongoing health paranoia. Martell, who recently returned from a five-day trip to North Korea, described a society where mask-wearing and temperature checks are still routine, and popular tourist sites, including local markets, remain off-limits due to lingering fears of virus transmission.
The filmmaker also encountered bizarre theories about the origins of the virus, including a rumor that COVID-19 was introduced to North Korea via a balloon sent from South Korea. This level of paranoia highlights the isolated nature of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) and its cautious approach to reopening to the outside world. Martell’s visit was part of a small delegation of tour operators working to lay the groundwork for the limited return of Western tourism.
## The Rebirth of Tourism in North Korea
Despite the lingering restrictions, there is a sense of optimism among tour operators as North Korea slowly begins to reopen its borders to tourists. Martell, alongside Australian Rowan Beard of Young Pioneer Tours (YPT) and Hungarian Gergő Vaczi of Koryo Tours, crossed back into China after their visit, eager to start bringing small groups of Western tourists into the remote Rason region of North Korea. This corner of the country, near the borders of China and Russia, is set to host tourists from Germany, France, the United Kingdom, Canada, Australia, Macao, and Jamaica.
Beard, who has led tours to North Korea for over a decade, described the upcoming trips as a significant step forward after years of extreme isolation. “I’m over the moon that the first group’s going this week,” he said, though he acknowledged the challenges of restarting tourism in a country that has been largely cut off from the rest of the world. “It’s a hard reboot,” Beard said. “And it’ll take time to find that balance.”
While key experiences, such as visiting the Rason market to haggle with locals using North Korean currency, are currently off-limits, Beard remains hopeful. He emphasized that tourism outfits are in discussions with local ministries to restore access and rebuild trust step by step.
## The Challenges of Access for American Tourists
For American citizens, visiting North Korea has been particularly challenging. The U.S. State Department imposed a travel ban on September 1, 2017, following the death of Otto Warmbier, a 22-year-old American student who died after being imprisoned in North Korea. Martell, who had visited North Korea 11 times before the ban, found himself caught up in the sudden restriction. “I was crossing the Sinuiju-Dandong border when it hit,” he recalled. “It made me, I think, the last American tourist on a U.S. passport to leave the DPRK.”
Determined to return, Martell obtained dual citizenship from Saint Kitts and Nevis, a Caribbean nation known for its citizenship-by-investment program. By contributing a six-figure sum to the country’s Sustainable Island State Contribution fund, he secured a second passport, which legally allowed him to return to North Korea without violating U.S. restrictions. “It was about a year of paperwork,” he explained. “Background checks, financial disclosures — the whole nine yards.”
Martell views the investment as worthwhile, not just for access to North Korea but also for the broader travel opportunities it provides. “You have to really want to go,” he said. “But my advice is: if you’re going to spend the time and money, make sure the passport offers more than just access to North Korea. My Saint Kitts passport gets me into Russia visa-free — something my U.S. passport can’t do.”
## Politics and Sensitivity in North Korea
While North Korea is slowly reopening to tourists, certain topics remain highly sensitive. Vaczi, the head of DPRK tours for Koryo Tours, observed that discussions about Russia’s war in Ukraine were met with silence or careful omission. Ukrainian and Western governments have accused Pyongyang of sending North Korean troops to fight on Russia’s side, but the topic is largely avoided in conversations with guides and officials.
Martell noted that North Korean guides were aware of global events, from the tariffs proposed by former President Donald Trump to the conflict in Ukraine. However, their perspectives were often more revealing in what they chose not to say than what they shared. “We talked about geopolitics, but on Ukraine, they mostly listened,” he said. “It was a topic they approached with caution, even as they expressed support for Russia.”
Despite the political tensions, Martell and his companions found that the usual symbols of hostility toward the U.S. seemed more subdued during their visit. Martell noted that he didn’t see any anti-American propaganda posters on display and had to specifically ask for anti-American postcards at the foreign language bookstore, as they were no longer displayed upfront.
## The Human Side of North Korea
Beyond the politics and paranoia, it was the human encounters that left the most lasting impression on Martell and his companions. At a local school, Martell found himself answering questions from curious students who were eager to learn about life in the U.S. “The kids didn’t care about politics,” he said. “They wanted to know about music, sports
