One of the most anticipated moments of the week was Veronica Leoni’s debut collection for Calvin Klein, the brand’s first runway show since Raf Simons’ departure in 2018. Leoni’s collection struck a balance between sleek, modern business casual attire and timeless elegance, with wide tailoring and billowing silk fabrics. The designer emphasized her aim to explore beauty in its purest form, drawing inspiration from the archives without indulging in nostalgia. Calvin Klein himself attended the show, as did a star-studded lineup of past and present models, including Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, FKA Twigs, and Kendall Jenner, who walked the runway in a striking ankle-length pinstripe coat dress.
The week also saw a mix of high-profile celebrity appearances and intimate moments of reflection. At Collina Strada, front-row guests included Ella Emhoff, Dove Cameron, and Japanese Breakfast singer Michelle Zauner, while Christian Siriano’s show drew Katie Holmes, Whoopi Goldberg, and Julianne Hough. Meanwhile, designers like Sergio Hudson and Christopher John Rogers spoke candidly about the challenges facing American fashion, pointing to a lack of support for independent designers and the industry’s broader struggles with inclusion and equity. Hudson called for greater recognition of local talent, emphasizing the need to “open up our eyes and see what we have at home.”
Politics and social issues cast a shadow over the proceedings, as designers grappled with the implications of a turbulent new political administration and ongoing trade tensions. Many used the platform to advocate for unity and inclusivity. Christian Siriano, for instance, celebrated diversity on the runway, stating, “We need fantasy. We need dreams. We need to show all of the colors and cultures that are here, especially in New York.” At Collina Strada, founder Hillary Taymour presented a matriarchal vision of the “fempire,” with models kissing on the runway and wearing protective eyewear to symbolize the need for resilience in uncertain times.
Despite the challenges, American fashion showed its resilience and creativity. Designers like Prabal Gurung and Elena Velez emphasized the importance of storytelling and connection in their work. Velez, whose collection drew inspiration from mermaid and siren archetypes, described fashion as a “longevity game,” requiring persistence and determination to make an impact. Her designs, featuring netting, leather, and ruffled gowns, reflected a sense of defiance and passion. Similarly, Gurung’s collection focused on intimacy and hope, offering a counterpoint to the anxieties of the present moment.
Looking ahead, American fashion remains a dynamic and multifaceted force, shaped by the unique perspectives of its designers. From the conceptual closing of Thom Browne’s show, where suited models evoked otherworldly birds, to the vibrant, color-blocked dresses of Christopher John Rogers, the week showcased a wide range of artistic visions. As Elena Velez noted, American fashion is defined by its scrappy, optimistic spirit—a spirit that continues to inspire and uplift, even in the face of uncertainty.
