Industry bodies are advocating for a change in how the UK fashion industry handles product lifecycle costs.
- A white paper recommends variable fees under the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) to enhance sustainability.
- This proposal has garnered support from multiple fashion organisations and brands.
- The initiative aims to alleviate environmental impacts by incentivising eco-friendly product designs.
- Experts argue these changes are crucial for progress in sustainability and recycling practices.
A collective of industry bodies is rallying for a transformative shift in how costs are managed within the UK fashion sector’s product lifecycle. They propose a variable fee structure under the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), as outlined in a recent white paper developed by QSA Partners, with significant backing from organisations like the UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) and the British Fashion Council. This initiative underscores the need for producers to assume the financial burden of end-of-life product management, rather than transferring this responsibility onto community and environmental resources.
The white paper advocates for an EPR framework that would markedly augment product recycling and reuse, in addition to mitigating the adverse environmental impacts linked to fashion production. The proposed fee structure is tailored to ensure that those taking proactive environmental measures in product design are rewarded, while those neglecting their ecological responsibilities face penalties. Adam Mansell, the UKFT’s chief executive, stated, “An EPR fee scheme based on eco modulation would level the playing field, by rewarding positive action for those designing for end of life and penalising those that don’t take their responsibility to the environment seriously. Legislation is needed to drive progress.”
The scheme also aims to inspire businesses to pivot towards circular design principles and bolster the UK’s recycling infrastructure. Katharine Beacham, head of sustainability at Marks & Spencer, emphasised, “A successful EPR scheme must incentivise good business, encourage circular design and invest in UK recycling infrastructure if we are to achieve positive change.” Such shifts are essential for establishing a more sustainable industry that prioritises both environmental integrity and economic viability.
Tim Clark, technical director of John Smedley, noted the significance of the EPR Sandbox project, which allowed a diverse committee from the textile sector to develop a fair EPR process. He commented, “The EPR Sandbox project has enabled a steering committee from various sectors within the textile industry to create a process for EPR that is fair to all involved. Everyone needs to become aware of the EPR process and help us shape the future for product end of life and beyond.” This collaborative approach signals a unified effort towards effecting meaningful change across the industry.
The proposed variable EPR fees represent a pivotal move towards a more sustainable and equitable fashion industry.