Alessandro Michele has unveiled his debut collection for Valentino ahead of schedule.
- Entitled ‘Avant les Débuts’, the collection was launched during Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
- The collection includes an extensive range: 171 ready-to-wear looks and 93 images of shoes and accessories.
- Michele, inspired by Valentino’s rich archive, aims to revisit the brand’s legacy from the 1970s and 1980s.
- Originally set for an October release, Michele brought the collection forward to prioritise “sharing”.
Alessandro Michele, an Italian designer renowned for his transformative tenure at Gucci from 2015 to 2022, has made a striking debut at Valentino. Having assumed the role of creative director in April, Michele unveiled his first collection for the fashion house unexpectedly early, aligning the launch with Milan Men’s Fashion Week. This collection, designated ‘Avant les Débuts’ or ‘before the debut’, reflects Michele’s intention to rejuvenate the brand by intertwining its historical elegance with contemporary fashion ethos.
Comprising 171 men’s and women’s ready-to-wear designs, alongside 93 images showcasing shoes and accessories, the collection highlights Michele’s capacity to blend past and present inspirations. He cited Valentino’s “magical, potent place” and its archival “marvellous treasures” as the driving force behind his creative vision. Michele’s affinity for the sophisticated and soft aesthetics reminiscent of the brand’s 1970s and 1980s fashion is evident throughout the collection, marking a deliberate nod to founder Valentino Garavani’s legacy during those decades.
The decision to accelerate the collection’s release to June, from its initial October schedule, was guided by Michele’s ethos that fashion should be both seen and shared. “It’s all about sharing, so to keep the collection somehow hidden from view wouldn’t have felt right,” Michele stated. His approach underscores a philosophy centred on openness and showcases his affection for the brand, framing this release as a ‘beginning born out of love.’
Michele’s departure from Gucci was surrounded by reports of a demand for a ‘strong design shift’, aimed at rejuvenating the brand’s aesthetic under its owner, Kering. In his stead, Sabato de Sarno, formerly of Valentino, was appointed as Gucci’s creative director, paving the way for Michele’s new chapter at Valentino. This transition is marked by Michele’s reflective stance on past influences and his dedication to reinvigorating Valentino’s classic allure.
Michele’s early collection for Valentino signifies both a fresh start and a homage to the brand’s storied past.
